Men’s Tailoring 101 – Know Some Important Terminology

The world of men’s tailoring can sometimes be as puzzling as everything else in this industry. It speaks its own language and has a wide base of terminology that can confuse anyone. Most men and women get tangled in the baffling world of tailoring terminology-Wondering what rises mean or what darts are! These terms can make it even more difficult for you to get a suit that fits you perfectly.

Here, at The Suit Concierge, we have tried to make things easier for you. We have prepared a glossary of tailoring terminology frequently used by bespoke tailors:

You might have heard your tailor often talking about “button stance”.

No matter how complicated it sounds; the vertical button stance is the position where the waist button is placed on the coat.

Usually, button stances are positioned at three different levels:

• Neutral – At the waistline
• Low – Below the waistline to create a deeper V shape
• High – Above the waistline for shortening the opening of the “V” on the jacket.

Most off the rack two-button suit jackets are available with a neutral or slightly high button stance. While for a three-button suit, the stance is higher.

Each button stance has its unique properties that enhance your assets and conceal the body shape asymmetries.

Canvas is a structural layer of fabric usually made from wool or horsehair and sits between the outer fabric and lining of the jacket. The canvas is loosely stitched to the fabric and allows free movement. Additionally, the primary purpose of the canvas is to support the shape of the jacket.

There are three types of canvas(s) that are commonly used:

• Full Canvas – Here the canvas is sewn entirely of the front panel
• Fused Canvas – Usually, a fused suit’s inner structural layer is affixed to the fabric instead of being sewn in.
• Half Canvas – The half-canvas is sewn only into the chest area of the jacket. This makes the suit lightweight, making them ideal for spring or summer.

While shopping for a new suit, you might come across jackets labelled as “double-breasted”. This may appear the same as a standard suit jacket to the layman, however, there are few nuances that are unique double-breasted.

A double-breasted jacket is a formal outerwear characterised by broad and overlapping flaps of fabric on the front with two columns of buttons. A typical double-breasted suit jacket features four buttons on each side. Since single-breasted is quite common, wearing double-breasted suits gives you an effortlessly debonair look.

A right inseam makes sure your pants fit properly and hangs perfectly well, thus giving you an impressive look. An inseam runs right from the top of the thigh to the bottom of your pants. The inseams bind the inner pant leg and are measured from the bottom of the crotch to the lower ankle.

A jetted or besom pocket is a basic pocket style quite common for men’s suits. It has a narrow horizontal slit on the exterior of the jacket that ingresses a lined pocket inserted between the linings and outer material. Moreover, it has a small strip of fabric taped between the top and bottom of the slit. Among the various kinds of pockets, the jetter is regarded as the most formal one and the appropriate choice for a dinner jacket.

Stay tuned for more information on tailoring terminology in the next blog.